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Wednesday, July 28, 2010


The meals on this trip have been varied. Today I had to dispose of four grilled chicken breasts that Monica had made before we left because we didn't have time to eat them.
John Morrison and I ate out the first two nights, in Annapolis and Chesapeake City.
Then John jumped ship in Cape May, Tom Gilmore came aboard and a half hour later, we were out on the Atlantic. We were unable to land the first two bluefish that we hooked, so for dinner we ate two of the pieces of chicken along with boiled white potatoes and peas.
The next night, the seas were choppy as we approached Long Island, so I heated a can of Dinty Moore beef stew for Tom and a can of chicken noodle soup for me. We then ran into a line of thunder storms, and the chicken noodle never actually settled in place.
The following day, we finally landed a blue and that night, we ate it fried along with home fries and onions and another can of vegetables. It was a great meal.
The next night, I decided once again that I wouldn't cook. We'd been nibbling all day, so I made peanut butter and raisin sandwiches. Tom leveled a charge of crew abuse. Too bad.
The following night, we were at Dodge Morgan's party, where Tom ate lobster and I cheeseburgers.
Sunday night, we were finally on a mooring in Rockland and I treated Tom to a restaurant dinner
Monday, I finished as much as I could of the bluefish.
Last night, I ate three mackerel that I'd caught the night before.
Tonight, I could catch a couple more mackerel. But I'm bored with the way I cook fish. I need my resident chef on board before I justify taking more fish lives. I think it'll be pasta and marinara sauce.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010



The second part of the voyage to Maine began in Hadley Harbor at 4:30 a.m., first light. We motored north two hours and caught the current flying through the Cape Cod Canal. By 8:15 a.m., we were on Cape Cod Bay, motoring north toward Casco Bay, Maine.
Dodge Morgan in 1986 set a world record for circumnavigating the globe singlehande. Now, every summer near his private island in Maine, he hosts a party that includes a regatta that "celebrates the spirit of non-competitiveness."
The regatta has a starting gun, and this year, when the gun went bang, a record number of vessels began sailing in a light to moderate breeze out of Quahog Bay toward the ocean.
Robin found her self in the wake of a Morris 36 daysailor, a gorgeous and, no doubt, swift boat that costs over $400,000.
Tom Gilmore and I had the main and staysail up as we prepared for the start. Once the gun sounded, we rolled out the genoa.
And the competitive juices.
Taking aim at the transom of the Morris, we began gaining on it.
Now the Morris wasn't doing too bad. It was right with the rest of the fleet, which included Dodge's beautiful 30-foot schooner, a Mariner 42 (I think), a Cape Dory 33, a couple of Rhodes 19s and several other sailboats, kayaks and canoes.
We were about 20 feet off the Morris transom when one of the kids on board pointed back at us with an odd expression.
A Westsail 32 is surpisingly capable in light winds. I knew that, and I steered accordingly and was able to get upwind of the Morris, whose skipper no doubt believed the "Wetsnail" nickname that suggests Robin is a dog.
In time, during this non-competitive event, we passed the Morris to our sheer delight.
The race is called the Bang and Go Back. The second gun sounded, and everyone came about and headed back toward Snow Island, Dodge's private retreat. When Robin crossed the finish line, every boat except the Mariner 42 was in her wake, and she was nipping at the Mariner's transom.
We and the Mariner circumnavigated Snow Island and then we all attended the lobster picnic on the island. The next day, Sunday, we motor sailed to Rockland, our destination, in 11 hours, a pretty good trip with no disquieting events but much gorgeous scenery.
Now Robin is on a mooring in Rockland and I'm entertaining myself (in a coffee shop right now) while I await Monica's arrival on Friday.
I ate the rest of the bluefish last night. Tonight, I have three mackerel in the freezer that I caught after dinner last night.



Robin is on a mooring in Rocklaond (ME) Harbor. Tom Gilmore went home yesterday morning on a Grayhound. Now I'm waiting for Monica to arrive. I pick her up at the Manchester, NH, airport Friday night.
The trip up was interesting. John Morrison helped Robin get to Cape May, NJ, in three days. Those were uneventful passages.
Tom got on when John left, and we headed out immediately for Buzzards Bay and the Cape Cod Canal. I had decided to forego the passage east around Cape Cod due to the kidney stone attack the day before we left Cambridge.
Four events marked the crossing to the canal. The first was a fish -- about 18 inches long -- that walked on water. Clearly he was being chased by something. He shot up out of the water vertically and, to avoid being dinner, tilted his body forward and, thrashing his tail furiously, managed to run on that tail perhaps 100 feet before energy gave out or gravity prevailed. When he fell beneath the surface, we lost contact. Don't know whether he managed to escape.
The next event was a commercial fishing boat about 50 feet long that approached us from our port side about 50 miles offshore. He drew closer and closer until it seemed that we might be on a collision course. He crossed our bow about 50 feet ahead -- with no one on the bridge or on deck -- in fact, no one in sight.
The third event was a line of thunderstorms off Long Island that caught us just inside the shipping lanes. We couldn't run away. They slammed us for a couple of hours, but we emerged the other side untouched.
Fourth was the time when, in 20 t0 25 knots of northwest wind that came at daylight following the storm, we hooked a bluefish. We landed the 27-incher, and that night, on anchor in a peaceful Hadley Harbor, we had a feast.
There is more, but it is lunch time and I need to get back to Robin for nourishment.

Saturday, July 17, 2010


Monica and John's wife, Fran, were set to take us to Robin this morning, leaving home at 8 a.m. But at that time, I was in a local emergency room.
A kidney stone that I didn't know existed decided to strike at 5 o'clock this morning.
I'm fine now, and I think I may have passed the stone. So tomorrow morning at 6:3o, we'll go get John (and maybe Fran) and try to get to Robin early enough that we can make it from Cambridge to Annapolis as we had planned.
But there is an unfortunate new wrinkle. John will stay with me to Cape May, where Tom comes aboard. But John has to stay ashore when Tom boards. A daughter in California is having medical problems.
Monica and I have been reading a Maine cruising guide, and she is getting more and more excited about the two weeks we will cruise there.
The refrigeration did seem to work yesterday when I tried it. But I was unable to resolve the issue with the battery charger.
That's no big loss since I don't expect to have much chance to plug into shore power for the next six weeks. I'll have someone who knows about marine electrical stuff -- maybe Josh -- to examine it when Robin returns.

Thursday, July 15, 2010

In the morning, it will be two days until Robin leaves Cambridge, headed for Maine. This is anxiety time, the place before an extended voyage when you are trying to assure that you are ready, that the boat is ready, that the crew is ready.
And nothing ever is completely ready.
Today I got a call from Josh, the electrician, who said he had fixed the refrigeration but that he noticed the battery charger didn't seem to be working. He had to run Robin's engine to get enough juice to run the refrigeration.
I don't have time to ask someone to look at it, so in the morning, I'll do my best to troubleshoot the electrical system. My hunch is that it's the same problem that nearly kept us from the starting line in St. George's, Bermuda, a year ago -- a corroded ground lug under the engine. I'll clean that lug in the morning and cross my fingers.
We don't need the battery charger to go to Maine. It only works when you are at a dock with electricity. But we do need the batteries to charge reliably, so cleaning the lug would be a good practice in any case.
It is 9:45 p.m. The air conditioning is on, blowing cool air over the starboard settee, which tonight will be my berth.
The water around Robin is alive right now. There are thousands and thousands of menhaden rippling the surface of the marina like a hail storm. Beneath the schools, slightly larger fish flash their bright silver sides as they streak up from below to feast.
Under a sidewalk lamp that shines out onto the water, you can see jelly fish with translucent gray bulbs and long tendrils. And you can see crabs swimming this way and that. I had never observed crabs before, but now I know why they are called "beautiful swimmers". They do the side stroke!
They pull with the legs on one side and then glide some distance before repeating the stroke. When they see food or a predator -- maybe a larger crab -- they dart at an acute angle. There are tiny swimmers and larger ones. Under the light, the action is similar to the adolescent excesses found in a mosh pit.
Today, I loaded most of the edible supplies aboard Robin and stored the clothing in the designated compartments. I bought jugs and bottles of water and bottles of green tea and stored that, too. Then I replaced some rotten plywood in the deck box that I was modifying to move the propane out of the cockpit.
In the morning, I'll paint the plywood. But Josh is unable to complete the relocation of the propane tank from the cockpit, so everything -- the gas tanks and the life raft -- will remain where it is.
I see by the National Hurricane Center web site that there are two areas of interest in the tropics -- one in the western Caribbean and the other much farther east. I'll be keeping an eye on those systems from now on. If they develop, Robin will stop in the nearest safe spot and await their passing.
Now, it's time for sleep.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

It is 90-something degrees outside, but in Robin's saloon, it is quite pleasant. Today I brought the serious hardware back to Robin -- the life raft, the drogue, the survival suits -- and I brought a new lid for the deck box where, I hope, the working propane tank will be moved either tomorrow or during the weekend.

The lid fit well, considering that I'd built it at home and had to work off of measurements rather than build it to fit the real thing. (My carpentry mentor, Bill Haldeman, almost never measures.) But I discovered a problem. The forward wall of the deck box base is rotten. I managed to fasten the lid to some good portions of that wall, but it will have to be replaced -- perhaps not before we cast off for Maine, however.

It has been a busy couple of weeks. I've been rewriting the latest attempt at a youth novel. And I've been attempting to get Bluebird, the O'Day Mariner, some power. Skip, the outboard mechanic in Philadelphia, said to call back next week. He's been having problems getting the old bolts out of the lower unit.

So Bluebird sits placidly on her mooring. I check her every morning when I start my daily run, and I drive to the end of the street every time I go out of the house. But so far, we haven't sailed her. I'm getting some shall I say sarcasm from another member of the household who, unfortunately, recalls how frantically I looked for this boat last summer.
But in a week and three days, Robin will set sail and so for the interim, I have to focus on her needs.
And I have to finish the rewrite.
I've been hoping I could generate some income by writing about the Maine voyage. But a look at the most recent Soundings edition, where there were only three pages of sailboat classified ads, suggests just how difficult that sale may be.
So the trip will be fore pure pleasure, and that is the best kind.
Today I also brought the canned food for the trip. Soup, beef stew, sliced potatoes, peas and canned fruit -- particularly pears for any crew members who might have gastric distress as we round Nantucket Shoals. I also have ginger candy which, when chewed, does seem to calm a queezy stomach, along with Bonine and Sturgeron, a medication recommended by Dan Stadtlander.
The four boxes of meds and first aid supplies are on board, as are the clean sheets, the towels and some snacks.
When I leave here tomorrow, I may not return until the day before the voyages starts. Hope I remember everything.